Turtles make excellent pets because they’re gentle and shy, but many species enjoy interacting with their owners. Smaller turtles don’t take up a lot of space, and they’re quiet, so they make the perfect companion for people who live in apartments.
Most turtles are easy to care for and are ideal pets for beginners and advanced reptile keepers alike. Despite being easy to care for, they have specific requirements that you need to meet to keep them happy and healthy. Doing the proper research is vital before jumping to owning a turtle.
Choosing the Right Tank
The type and size enclosure you choose depends on your turtle species. Most turtles do best in a glass aquarium; they are great for holding water, humidity, and temperature. Plus, they make it easy to see your turtle.
For terrestrial turtles, some people use large rabbit cages. Many people also build large outdoor enclosures so their turtles can get natural sunlight during summer.
Make Sure Your Tank Is Safe
Avoid glass reptile aquariums because they’re not usually designed to hold water and will likely crack under pressure. Instead, get a sturdy glass aquarium intended for fish.
Sometimes it’s cheaper to reuse an old tank, but before setting it up for your turtle, fill it with water to ensure no cracks or leaks.
Choose The Right Tank Size
Even if your turtle is small, they need plenty of space to wander and explore. A turtle housed in a small enclosure becomes stressed and may fall ill.
When it comes to enclosure size, every species is different, but here are some general guidelines for a single fully-grown adult turtle:
- Small turtles (4-6 in) need 30+ gallons
- Medium-sized turtles (6-8 in) need 50+ gallons
- Large turtles (8+ in) need 75+ gallons
Whenever possible, go with a larger tank than necessary to give your turtle plenty of space to explore.
As a baby, you can start your turtle off in a smaller tank, but you’ll need to upgrade its enclosure as they grow. I recommend starting them with their adult-sized tank immediately, as it’s easier on you and your turtle.
Most turtles are solitary animals and enjoy having an enclosure to themselves. Still, most will do okay in an enclosure with other turtles if you provide a large enough area. Depending on the species, you should have AT LEAST 20+ extra gallons for each additional turtle. Without enough space, turtles become territorial and may injure each other.
Do You Need A Tank Cover?
Mesh covers protect the top of your enclosure; they prevent objects from falling in, prevent your turtle from escaping, and keep the enclosure well-ventilated. Mesh covers add protection against predators for turtles who live outside. They also provide a safe spot to place your heat lamp and lighting while preventing the light from burning your turtle.
Despite their awkward bodies, turtles are excellent escape artists. Ensure you get a lid that locks onto the enclosure to prevent your turtle from pushing its way out.
Designing the Layout of Your Turtle Tank
If you have an aquatic turtle, you should divide your tank into two areas: an underwater space where your turtle can swim and an above-water basking area.
Terrestrial turtles like to have water, too, but you can provide them with a much smaller and shallower area than an aquatic turtle.
Swimming Space
At least half of your aquatic turtle’s tank should have a swimming area. Aquatic and semi-aquatic turtles spend most of their day underwater, rarely coming onto land. To keep them healthy and active, they need ample space for swimming.
Terrestrial Space
Fully aquatic turtles only need about 25% of their enclosure to be terrestrial. About half of a semi-aquatic turtle’s space should be terrestrial, and most of a terrestrial turtle’s enclosure should be land.
Many pre-designed turtle tanks come with an area designed specifically for basking. Designing your enclosure is a bit trickier, but you can buy ramps, logs, rocks, or platforms to create a basking area for your turtle. These things must be large enough to stand above the water or need to float on the water.
Terrestrial turtles need a layer of substrate on top of their glass enclosure to walk on. Newspaper, paper towels, artificial turtle grass, or paper-based pelleted bedding is best. Provide them with a shallow water dish large enough to soak their entire body.
Types Of Substrate
Sand is safe for your turtle but can be more challenging to clean.
Gravel needs to be larger than 0.5 in (1.27 cm) in diameter; otherwise, your turtle may swallow it. Swallowed gravel can cause choking or impaction, which can be fatal for your turtle.
For plant lovers, Flourite makes a good substrate option. Flourite comprises crystallized calcium fluoride cubes that help with plant growth. You can also mix Flourite and gravel for a more natural look. Like gravel, ensure these crystals are over 0.5 in (1.27 cm) in diameter.
You should only use coral for brackish and saltwater-dwelling turtles. A coral substrate is not ideal for plant growth, so it doesn’t work well in freshwater habitats. Coral also raises the pH of your water which is often beneficial for brackish and saltwater turtles but is not ideal for freshwater turtles.
Gathering the Necessary Equipment
Besides your tank, you’ll need a filter and a heater to keep your turtle healthy.
Turtle Tank Filters
Filtration is essential for keeping your turtle’s tank clean and healthy. A dirty tank looks gross and is a significant health hazard to your pet.
All filters come equipped with mechanical and biological filtration.
Mechanical filtration refers to the filter pumping water in and out and the sponge that captures large waste materials like food and poop.
Biological filtration refers to the beneficial bacteria that live within your filter. Beneficial bacteria is essential to a healthy aquarium because it breaks down toxins like ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates.
Many filters have chemical filtration as well, such as activated carbon. Activated carbon, or other filter media, goes inside the filter. As the water pumps through the filter, the filter media removes toxins like ammonia.
Many filters are “multi-layer” filters, meaning they contain several different layers of filter media. Filter media may consist of sponges, activated charcoal, ceramic rings, lava rock, polyfill, fiberfill floss, and Bio Balls. Each kind of filter media has its job, and you can pick and choose which ones you want to include in your filter depending on what your tank needs.
Choose a filter made for the size of your tank. A 50-gallon aquarium should have a filter designed for 50 gallons or more. It’s always better to buy a bigger filter because it will clean your water more efficiently.
Canister Filters
Canister filters are most common in larger turtle tanks. They are most convenient because they sit outside the aquarium and are easily hidden inside a cabinet where the aquarium sits. They are multi-stage filtration systems containing multiple layers of filter media and are efficient at removing waste and purifying water.
Internal Filters
Internal filters, or submersible filters, sit inside the tank, attached to the glass sides with suction cups. Submersible filters are usually suitable for tanks up to about 100 gallons. Like canister filters, internal filters are also multi-stage filters, but they can’t hold as much filter media because of their smaller size.
“Hang on Back” (HOB) Filters
“Hang on Back,” or HOB filters, hang on the back of the aquarium. They are meant for fish tanks, not turtle tanks, so you’ll need to make adjustments if you want to use them for your turtle tank.
Turtle tanks aren’t filled to the top like fish tanks, so it will be harder to set the filter up correctly within your aquarium. Turtles are dirtier than fish, so you’ll need a filter designed for an aquarium bigger than the one you have. For instance, if you have a 20-gallon aquarium, it would be best to get a filter rated for 40-50 gallons.
Under Gravel Filter (UGF)
An under-gravel filter sits beneath the substrate and is not usually recommended for turtle enclosures since turtles like to dig. But, if your turtle isn’t a digger, under gravel filters can be efficient because they pull water and waste into the filter from within the substrate.
Turtle Tank Heaters
Turtles, like all reptiles, are cold-blooded and cannot regulate their body temperature. They rely on the temperature of their environment to keep their bodies warm. Housing them in a tank that is too cold is a surefire way to end up with a sick turtle.
Heating the Water
The optimal water temperature for your turtle depends on the species, the age of your turtle, and its health. But 74-82°F (23.3-27.8°C) is ideal for most turtles.
Submersible Heaters
To keep your turtle warm, you’ll need an aquarium heater. Submersible heaters are one of the most popular for turtle tanks because they are easy to install directly in the water. They are completely waterproof and can sit vertically or horizontally anywhere in the water column.
Ensure that the heater sits at least 1 in (2.54 cm) below the water line in case of evaporation. A submersible heater should never be exposed to air when turned on; it may overheat and malfunction, putting your turtle in danger.
Turtles can be rough and destructive with the items in their tank, so avoid submersible heaters with glass covers that you find in the fish-keeping aisle. Instead, choose a heater with a metal or plastic cover.
External Heaters
External in-line heaters are another option if you don’t like placing hearts directly inside the tank. You’ll need a canister filter or a water pump to use these. These are exceptionally efficient if you have a canister filter because one device can do the job of two.
Tank water is pumped from the aquarium and into the heater, where it’s warmed. Then, the water is pumped back into the aquarium.
Avoid under-tank heaters and heat rocks for turtle tanks because they are not safe or efficient for turtles. They are better suited for lizards.
Make sure to choose a heater big enough to warm all the water in your tank. Below is a chart that explains what size heater you’ll need for your tank:
| Tank Size (Gallons) | Watts Needed To Heat The Tank |
| 20 | 100 |
| 25 | 125 |
| 29 | 145 |
| 30 | 150 |
| 40 | 200 |
| 50 | 250 |
| 55 | 275 |
| 65 | 195 |
| 75 | 225 |
| 90 | 270 |
| 125 | 375 |
| 150 | 450 |
| 180 | 540 |
Size Aquarium Heater (Watts) Needed Based On Aquarium Size (Standard Aquarium Sizes — Gallons)
Keep a thermometer in the water to monitor the temperature; avoid glass thermometers because your turtle will break them. Depending on your house’s temperature, you may need a stronger or weaker filter.
Creating A Basking Area
The basking area is the hottest part of your tank, and your turtle needs sunlight and warmth. In the wild, turtles spend much of their day sitting on rocks or logs, basking in the sun.
Basking regulates their heat and helps their bodies absorb the vitamin D3 needed to maintain the health of their shells and bones. You’ll need to recreate a basking space in their enclosure.
Most turtles need a basking area between 85-90°F (29.4-32.2°C).
You’ll want to create a temperature gradient throughout the tank, with the basking area being the hottest spot and the water is the coolest. A temperature gradient is essential in giving your turtle the ability to warm up and cool down whenever needed. You should keep several thermometers throughout the tank to monitor the temperature differences.
To heat the basking area, you’ll use a heat lamp. Mesh lids are great for ventilation and preventing your turtle from escaping, so I recommend getting a heat lamp that can sit on the lid. Placing the lamp on the lid should prevent the lamp from burning your turtle. Lamps should always sit 12-18 in (30.5-45.7cm) above where your turtle basks to avoid burning.
Many different bulbs come in varying wattages designed for various reptiles, and the specific wattage you need depends on your turtle’s species and the size of the enclosure.
Turtles in smaller enclosures do well with heat lamps with 50-75 watts. Larger enclosures may need 100 watts.
Take care when using incandescent, halogen, and mercury vapor bulbs because they get very hot and are more likely to burn your turtle. I don’t recommend using these with turtles because they can break when in contact with water, causing shards of glass to fall on your turtle. Turtles love to splash and may spray water onto these delicate bulbs.
UVB Turtle Tank Lighting
Besides a heat lamp, you’ll also need a UVB bulb. UVB bulbs are essential to your turtle’s enclosure because they help them absorb vitamin D3, which maintains the health of their shells, bones, and digestion. Without UVB lighting, your turtle is unlikely to survive for more than a year because it will develop metabolic bone disease (MBD), which is fatal when not treated.
Tortoise Trust explains why UVB lighting is so crucial to your turtle’s health:
“In nature, herbivorous tortoises acquire all of their vitamin D3 requirements as a result of a chemical reaction in the skin, following exposure to the UV-B spectrum of sunlight. A compound is formed that is known as 7dehydroxycholesterol (this is sometimes also shortened to 7DCH or provitamin D). This in turn is converted, by means of temperature, to vitamin D proper. It is vital that both sufficient UV-B plus adequate basking temperatures are available if this process is to function properly.”
UVA is also important because it helps regulate your turtle’s mood and gives them a better appetite. UVA is not nearly as important as UVB, though. Regardless, most UVB bulbs have UVA wavelengths, so you don’t need to buy different bulbs.
Most turtles do well with 2.5, 3, or 5% UVB bulbs; avoid bulbs with a higher percentage as they aren’t meant for turtles.
UVB light CANNOT penetrate glass, so you must use a mesh lid for your turtle’s enclosure.
Turtles are diurnal and need a regular day-night cycle to maintain a healthy circadian rhythm. Provide your turtle with about 10-12 hours of lighting a day. Any more than that will mess with their sleep cycle, which causes them stress and may make them sick. The easiest way to maintain a regular day-night cycle is to get a timer for your light.
Viewing Lights
Viewing lights aren’t necessary for your turtle’s health, but they make it easier for you to view your turtle. There are daytime and nighttime viewing lights, and LED lights are best because they are crisp and bright and use little electricity.
Choose a nighttime light that is red or blue because they are dimmer and won’t bother your turtle’s sleeping pattern but are bright enough for you to watch your turtle.
Other Helpful Equipment
Creating a turtle tank isn’t just about making a suitable habitat. You’ll want the enclosure to look nice and be as enriching for your turtle as possible. These other pieces of equipment can help with that.
Turtle Ledge
A ledge is a place for your turtle to come out of the water to dry off and bask. You can create a ledge using logs and rocks or buy ready-made ledges from the pet store.
Make sure you pick materials without sharp edges that could harm your turtle. Pick sanitary materials, like plastic, that won’t harbor bacteria and viruses.
Turtle Ramps
Ramps help your turtle climb from water to land. Turtles may become exhausted if they climb into their swimming spot and can’t find a way out. Pets stores have many pre-made ramps, or you can create one yourself. Test your homemade ramp for sturdiness before giving it to your turtle.
Rocks, Plants, & Other Decor
Rocks and branches give your turtle something to climb on, making your tank look more attractive. Live plants give your turtle something to snack on, help purify the water, and make the tank look nicer. Fake plants spruce up the look of your tank, too.
Turtles are shy animals who feel more comfortable when they have a place to hide. You can buy caves or create your own hiding spots out of rocks and logs.
Turtles love to explore, so don’t overcrowd the tank with decorations. Provide enough decorations to enrich your turtle but not enough to overwhelm them.
Avoid fully enclosed decorations because your turtle can get stuck in them. Logs and caves are okay if they’re big enough for your turtle to swim through or turn around. Make sure the opening is larger than your turtle’s shell before adding it to the aquarium.
Can Turtles Live In A Tank Full Of Water
There are a few fully aquatic turtle species — like the red-eared slider — you can keep as pets that will do okay with a full tank of water. Still, their tank should not consist of only water. At the very least, you should provide them with a platform above water they can use for basking.
Most aquatic turtles need much space to swim around, so they do better in pond spaces than in aquariums. Caring Pets describes their ideal habitat:
“The best living space you could provide them is a large pond with plenty of logs to bask on and aquatic plants for them to eat and hide amongst… However, you might not have the space for an outdoor garden pond, so at minimum, depending on the breed, you are going to need a tank or enclosure that has a pond deep enough for your turtle to fully submerge itself as well an area where it can get completely out of the water.”
Most pet turtle species are terrestrial or semi-aquatic, so they need adequate land space in addition to their swimming or drinking space.
Conclusion
Turtles are generally easy to care for once you have their enclosure set up, but getting their enclosure right is tricky. Turtles have specific requirements that you need to meet for them to stay happy and healthy.
You’ll need to ensure your turtle has enough space, the right amount of water, the proper lighting, and the correct temperature. You can make sure you have all of this right by researching the type of turtle you’re buying before actually buying it.
Once you set up the ideal enclosure, you’ll have a happy and healthy turtle for many years.
FAQs
Your turtle’s tank should not smell if you’re cleaning it regularly. The most common cause of the odor is the build-up of waste like poop and leftover food. Too much algae in the tank can produce a foul odor as well.
Fortunately, it’s easy to prevent your turtle tank from smelling — just clean it regularly. Spot clean every day to remove leftover food and poop from the water and terrestrial habitat. Make sure you have an excellent filter that sucks the waste from the water. Plus, perform water changes every one to two weeks to eliminate old, smelly water.
Turtles may not seem very agile, but they’re surprisingly good escape artists. To prevent your turtle from escaping, keep a lid on the tank that has fasteners to lock it on. Besides preventing escapes, mesh lids are suitable for supporting heat lamps.
People who own fish know the importance of cycling a tank before adding the fish. Adding fish to an uncycled tank lowers immunity and is likely to kill the fish. Turtles don’t “breathe” water as fish do, but the toxins produced by an uncycled tank are still harmful to your turtle’s skin. So, you should cycle your turtle’s tank before adding them to their new enclosure.
You said sand is fine but gravel has to be at least 1/2 inch in diameter so they wont eat it. Will they not eat the sand?