Red zebra cichlids are a species of rock-dwelling mbuna that are found in Lake Malawi and nowhere else. The most common color morph is red but they also come in blue and OB colors. All zebra mbuna are close relatives so you may find them mixed with other species.
Like most African cichlids from this region they are mouth brooders that provide parental care for their young. So long as you provide hard water, warm conditions, and a vegetable-based diet, red zebras are easy to keep and breed. Despite being aggressive, red zebra cichlids do well in mbuna community tanks.
- Common Names: Red Zebra Mbuna, Esther Grant’s Zebra, Red Zebra Cichlid
- Scientific Name: Maylandia estherae
- Origin: Lake Malawi, East Africa
- Length: 4 to 5 inches
- Tank Size: 40 gallons
- Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
- Ease of Care: Easy
Red Zebra African Cichlid Tank Size
Full grown red zebra cichlids will reach 4 to 5 inches long. Females top out at 4 inches but a large male will reach 5 inches. 40 gallons is the minimum since these cichlids are social and do better in groups.
One male to three or more females is best. If you have fewer females they may tire of a male that’s always ready to spawn. Red zebras also coexist well in mixed mbuna community tanks. But they are still semi-aggressive species. So the more space you can provide them, the better.
Red Zebra Mbuna Aquarium Setup
Rift lake biome aquariums are the best setup for a red zebra cichlid tank. All you need is a collection of medium to large rocks. Limestone and other rocks that raise the pH are fine since these are aquarium fish that prefer hard, alkaline water.
A few rocks directly under your light source will provide a platform for algae growth and grazing. There should also be a few caves since orange cichlids appreciate privacy when spawning. A subdominant fish may also need a chance to catch a break from more aggressive rivals by hiding.
Sand or gravel is suitable as a substrate. Most mbuna keepers prefer the crushed aragonite (coral) that saltwater aquarists use. It buffers the pH towards alkalinity. Plus its clean, white appearance helps cichlid colors pop.
Most live plants don’t prefer rift lake conditions. Java fern, dwarf sagittaria, and Eelgrass (Vallisneria sp.) are hardy enough, however. They are also tough and bitter, discouraging your cichlids from nibbling on them.
Water Conditions
Red zebra cichlids need specific water conditions to do well. The conditions they favor are easy to maintain, however. The waters of Lake Malawi are hard (high in mineral content) and alkaline. Rocks, sand, and other minerals keep the pH at 7.8-8.2.
Tap water in most developed countries tends to be hard and alkaline anyway, so that’s simple to achieve. The crushed coral substrate recommended earlier will also help keep the pH high. When looking to breed them, a dose of Lake Malawi cichlid salts is helpful. But it’s not required for the general well being of your fish.
Red African cichlids also need tropical temperatures of 75-81℉. Any colder will suppress their growth, appetite, and open them up to diseases.
Mbuna are hardy where nitrogenous waste (ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate) are concerned. But we still want to maintain ammonia and nitrite concentrations of 0 parts per million at all times.
Nitrate should be monitored and not allowed to grow past 15 ppm. A little nitrate is useful, however, since algae will use it as a nutrient. Giving your red zebra cichlids extra greenery to graze on.
Feeding Red Zebra Cichlids
Mbuna cichlids are omnivores but more vegetarian than carnivorous. The word “mbuna” means “rockfish” in the language of the Tonga people around Lake Malawi. These fish feed mostly on the algae that grows on the surface of lake rocks.
Red zebras do eat the occasional worm, crustacean, or insect larvae. But too much protein is not good for their health. It’s one of the primary causes of Malawi bloat. The disease looks like dropsy but is caused by improper food and water conditions.
Most aquariums aren’t large enough to provide a steady diet of fresh algae. So you’ll need to provide greens in the form of spirulina flakes, pellets, and African cichlid food formulas. The best frozen mixes also contain the right balance of algae, vegetables, and animal protein.
Brine shrimp, blood worms, and other protein-rich treats are fine once or twice per week. Red African cichlids also eat vegetables like spinach, zucchini, and squash. Boil them enough to soften them and clip them in place against the glass.
Remove the tough skins and any uneaten vegetable matter once your fish have finished. Otherwise you may end up with cloudy aquarium water. Adult cichlids should be fed twice per day. Young red zebras need to eat three times per day.
Red Zebra Cichlid Tank Mates
Cichlid red zebra do best when kept with other mbuna in spacious community tanks. The trick is to keep the tank close to being overcrowded. When you have too few mbuna they will form strict territories and fight with each other.
When kept in large groups no fish has the chance to become dominant or claim a patch of space. They will give short chases and you will see frayed fins sometimes. But overall, a large group of mbuna will be more peaceful than a handful kept together.
Most mbuna are compatible with each other since they are all similar in size and temperament. Red zebra mbuna are average in terms of aggression.
- Electric Blue Johanni
- Electric Yellow Lab
- OB Zebra cichlid
- Bumblebee cichlid
- Golden Mbuna cichlid
If you want non-mbuna tank mates, choose fish that are fast moving and thrive in hard, alkaline water. Giant danios, rainbowfish, and barb fish are good choices. Livebearers also enjoy these conditions but are too small and peaceful to live with red zebras.
Breeding African Cichlids
Red zebra mbuna are not difficult to breed if you’ve followed the steps outlined above. They will hybridize with other cichlids in the genus Maylandia, so be careful when creating mixed communities. Local hobbyists may not be interested in hybrid fry.
Red Zebra Cichlid Male or Female
Sexing red zebra cichlids is a little more difficult compared to other mbuna. Most species have dramatic color differences but both the males and females are bright orange to red. When ready to spawn males may display patches of yellow or white. But others will remain bright red.
The males and females of other red zebra populations may even be blue. Many Lake Malawi cichlids have locality-specific color variants, including Maylandia zebra. If you have one of these, you’ll need to check with the source of your fish.
The most reliable sexual indicators are size and egg spots. Male red zebras of the same age are larger than females. He will also have several egg spots on his anal fin. Females may have a few but no more than three. Males also court females through fin displays while chasing away other males they encounter.
Red zebras are mouth breeder fish. Right after the eggs are laid, the female scoops them into her mouth. The male fertilizes them by encouraging her to peck at the egg spots on his anal fin. They mimic the look of eggs so he dusts them with sperm while she tries to pick them up.
Fertilized eggs take 18-28 days to develop and hatch. The mother will not eat during this time. So it is critical that she be well fed before spawning occurs. She needs enough extra food to both produce eggs and enough fat to get her through this lean period.
Once her fry hatch they don’t leave right away. She will start eating again but the fry remain ready to flee back into her mouth if they feel threatened. Once the fry are free swimming you may want to catch them and raise them yourself. Otherwise the other fish in the tank will eat them before they grow larger.
OB red zebra cichlid fry should be fed baby brine shrimp. They will also graze on hard surfaces for algae like their parents.
Red zebra cichlids are as colorful as reef fish yet much easier to keep. They do well alongside each other and with other mbuna. Make sure the setup is spacious enough and well populated to minimize aggression between them. Also provide red zebras with a vegetable-based diet to avoid digestive disorders.
FAQs
The exact length of time depends on the cichlid species. Some mouth brood for 2 weeks while others will hold their eggs for up to 2 months. Once the eggs hatch, you will start seeing the fry swimming around the head of their parents. If the eggs weren’t fertilized the female will drop them at around 2 weeks. She may even eat them if they go bad.
Red zebra cichlids will live 8 to 10 years if well cared for.
African cichlids are, for the most part, mouth brooders. The female collects the fertilized eggs in her mouth and holds them until they hatch. A few species do things differently, however. In nearby Lake Tanganyika, there are cichlid groups that spawn in snail shells. These snail dwellers are some of the smallest cichlids in the world.
