How To Prepare New Plants For A Freshwater Aquarium

Most plants are far more forgiving than fish when introducing them to a new aquarium. Plants rarely need acclimation to a new freshwater aquarium. Some super delicate and difficult-to-care-for plants may need acclimation.

It’s still necessary to quarantine or sterilize new plants before placing them in a display tank.

Without taking precautions, plants may transfer irritating or harmful hitchhikers to the aquarium.

The most common hitchhikers include the following:

• Snails & their eggs
• Parasites
• Predatory invertebrates
• Nuisance algae
• Fungi, bacteria, & other disease
• Pesticides

The easiest method of treating plants is to place them in quarantine for a few weeks. Quarantine in freshwater poses no harm to plants. It is the best option for beginners, though it requires some patience.

Those with more aquarium experience may wish to use chemical solutions.

Chemical dips safe for plants include the following:

• Aluminum sulfate
• Hydrogen peroxide
• Potassium permanganate
• Bleach

We recommend quarantining new plants even when buying from reputable sites or stores. No matter how careful a seller may be, hitchhikers are always possible.

Aquarists must prepare the plants for treatment. They do this by caring for the leaves, stems, and roots.

After treatment, aquarists should know how to add their plants to their new tank. Get the best substrate, pick out aquarium-safe glue for hardscape, and add the plants to their new home.

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Quarantine New Plants

Quarantining new plants is simple. Set up a small tank separate from the display tank for the plants.

Most plants are simpler to care for than animals. They still need proper filtration, lighting, and heating.

Research the specific care of each plant before buying. Some need high light, while others need minimal lighting. Some do okay in cooler temperatures, while others die without a heater. Filters help keep the water clean, especially if the plants experience any melting.

Before adding plants to the quarantine tank, examine them. Remove any visible hitchhikers, like snails, snail eggs, or small invertebrates.

Remove The Pot, Fiber Wool, Or Rock Wool

Carefully remove any rock wool, fiber wool, or pot surrounding the plant’s roots. These materials are common on aquatic plants because they help keep the roots safe and moist.

The roots are delicate. Take great care when removing these materials, and remove as much as possible.

Trim The Roots & Dead Leaves

Remove any dead leaves or roots from the plant. Dead matter hinders the plant’s health and can cause more of the plant to die off.

The decaying matter also dirties the tank and can cause an ammonia or nitrite spike.

Cut back any overgrown roots as well; roots should be about 1-2 cm long. The roots grow back healthier once they attach to the substrate or rocks in the aquarium.

Rinse The Plants

Rinse the plant(s) off with cool, fresh water to remove hitchhikers that may not be visible.

Move The Plants To The Quarantine Tank

Simply place the plants in the quarantine tank. It’s unnecessary to acclimate most plants to the new water.

Quarantine the plants for about two to three weeks. A few weeks is enough time to allow hitchhikers to show themselves.

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Why A Quarantine Period Is Important

It’s essential to quarantine plants before putting them in a display tank. They may contain harmful organisms or diseases.

Snails & Snail Eggs

Aquatic plant sellers are not always careful about keeping their plants snail-free. “Pest” snails, like bladder and trumpet snails, are particularly common on plants.

These snails reproduce asexually, which means they can reproduce without a partner. They are always laying eggs. Excess nutrients allow the snails to continue reproducing.

Snails are often beneficial to aquariums because they help manage algae and detritus.

The problem with pest snails is their rapid reproduction. Dozens of snails can pop up seemingly out of nowhere.

While some snails are beneficial, large numbers are often unmanageable and look bad.

A severe pest snail problem can occur due to not quarantining their new plants.

Snail Eggs

Inspecting the plants before putting them in the tank isn’t always enough. Snails lay tiny eggs that are easy to miss. The eggs hatch after entering the new aquarium.

Search for the tiny, transparent eggs. Look for clusters on the underside of leaves, plant stems, and driftwood. A gelatinous casing often covers the egg clusters for protection.

Most eggs are easy to scrape off of decorations with fingers or a sharp aquarium tool.

Parasites & Dangerous Predators

Dragonfly nymph larvae and other predators sometimes hitchhike to aquariums on plants.

These predators aren’t prevalent and aren’t a huge concern. They are highly dangerous for small fish and invertebrates.

The easiest way to remove these parasites is by rinsing them off before quarantining. Aquarists can manually remove them from the tank if they missed them during rinsing.

Nuisance Algae

Algae frequently grows on plants and can hitchhike into a display tank on a plant. Nuisance algae can be difficult to get rid of once introduced.

Examine the plant before quarantine and remove any leaves that display algae growth.

In some cases, it may be necessary to sterilize the plants with the methods below.

Fungus, Bacteria, & Disease

Plants can harbor dangerous bacteria, fungi, or diseases.

Illnesses can be challenging to treat. They are easily preventable by putting the plants through quarantine.

Pesticides

Plants grown for the aquarium industry shouldn’t be treated with pesticides. Even though it shouldn’t occur, aquarists can never be too cautious.

Pesticides are highly toxic to aquatic life and can quickly wipe out a tank.

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How To Sterilize New Aquarium Plants

Sterilizing new plants is safer than quarantining them in terms of getting rid of dangerous hitchhikers. The sterilization methods kill dangerous hitchhikers.

Even the gentlest methods of disinfecting plants can be tricky. It’s not usually a good idea for beginners to try sterilization.

Sterilization is best practiced by expert aquarists.

Beginners are better off sticking to the quarantine method.

Be Safe & Use A New Bucket

Be sure to sterilize plants safely; always wear rubber gloves and protective eyewear.

Use a clean 5-gallon bucket or large container to do the plant dip.

We recommend buying a brand-new container to ensure it is free from harmful residue. Rinse the container before use, even if it is new, to remove any dust or coating.

We also recommend designating the bucket or container for aquarium use only. Doing so prevents the container from becoming contaminated, which can harm aquatic life.

Use a separate bucket or container to create a neutralizing solution. Use a de-chlorinator to make the neutralizing solution.

Follow the measuring directions on the container of de-chlorinator. Make a solution three times stronger than the bottle recommends for regular use.

Use An Aluminum Sulfate Dip

Aluminum sulfate, often called “Alum,” is the gentlest plant sterilization method. It is ideal for killing snails, though it isn’t very effective against bacteria or parasites.

Here’s how to use an aluminum sulfate plant dip:

1. Fill the bucket or container half full with warm water.
2. Mix 1-3 tbsp of aluminum sulfate for every 1 gallon of water.
3. Place the plants in the dip for about 2-3 hours.
   1. It may be necessary to keep the plants in the dip for longer.
4. Remove the plants from the hydrogen peroxide dip. Place them in the neutralizing dip for about 15 minutes. Be sure to wear gloves while removing the plants.
5. It’s now safe to transfer the plants to the display tank.

Use A Hydrogen Peroxide Dip

Hydrogen peroxide is a potent antiseptic, bleaching agent, and oxidizer. Aquarists often use hydrogen peroxide to remove stubborn algae from decorations.

Only use 3% hydrogen peroxide. Anything stronger is more dangerous and unnecessary to work with.

Hydrogen peroxide is highly effective in killing algae and parasites.

It can also kill plants if they sit in the solution for too long; only a few minutes of treatment is necessary.

Here’s how to use a hydrogen peroxide plant dip:

1. Fill the bucket or container half full with warm water.
2. Mix 2-3 ml of hydrogen peroxide for every 1 gallon of water.
3. Place the plants in the dip for about 3-4 minutes.
   1. Don’t keep the plants in the dip for more than 5 minutes.
4. Remove the plants from the hydrogen peroxide dip. Place them in the neutralizing dip for about 15 minutes. Be sure to wear gloves while removing the plants.
5. It’s now safe to transfer the plants to the display tank.

Use A Potassium Permanganate Plant Dip

Potassium permanganate is a common disinfectant in the aquarium industry. It kills snails, parasites, bacteria, fungi, and algae.

Potassium permanganate becomes less effective due to light exposure; use it somewhere dark.

Here’s how to use a Potassium Permanganate plant dip:

1. Fill the bucket or container half full with warm water.
2. Mix the Potassium Permanganate into the water:
   1. If using crystals, slowly begin mixing crystals into the water. Continue mixing in crystals until the water turns a dark pinkish-purple color.
   2. If using the liquid, follow the directions on the package to know how much to use. Create a solution double the strength of what the package says is safe for aquarium use.
3. Place the plants in the dip for about 10 minutes.
   1. Don’t keep the plants in the dip for more than 15 minutes.
4. Remove the plants from the Potassium Permanganate dip. Place them in the neutralizing dip for about 15 minutes. Be sure to wear gloves while removing the plants.
5. It’s now safe to transfer the plants to the display tank.

Use A Bleach Dip

Bleach is the most potent chemical on this list. It is often useful for removing tough algae from plants and decorations.

It is strong enough to kill algae, parasites, invertebrates, fungi, and bacteria.

Bleach comprises sodium hypochlorite. Don’t use bleach with other additives, as they can harm aquatic life and humans.

* WARNING

Bleach can cause chemical burns on the skin. Always wear rubber gloves and protective eyewear when handling. *

Here’s how to use a bleach plant dip:

1. Fill the bucket or container half full with warm water.
2. Mix 1 part bleach to 19 parts water.
3. Place the plants in the dip for about 1-2 minutes.
   1. Don’t keep the plants in the dip for more than 2 minutes.
4. Remove the plants from the bleach dip and place them in the neutralizing dip for about 15 minutes. Don’t remove the plants until the neutralizing water no longer smells like bleach. Be sure to wear gloves while removing the plants.
5. It’s now safe to transfer the plants to the display tank.

How To Clean Plastic Aquarium Plants

Aquarists use similar methods to clean plastic aquarium plants and other non-living decorations.

These are common solutions aquarists use for cleaning non-living decorations:

• Boiling water
• Vinegar
• Hydrogen peroxide
• Citric acid
• Muriatic acid & baking soda
• Bleach

These solutions are similar to the ones described above, though they differ somewhat.

Non-living decorations can withstand stronger solutions than living plants. They can also sit in the solutions for longer without much damage.

How To Add Live Plants To A Fish Tank

Know the needs of the plants before buying them. Knowing their needs makes it easier to add them to the tank.

Some, like Anubias species, are easy to keep alive and need little care. Others, like scarlet temple and dwarf baby tears, are far more difficult. They need higher lighting and carbon dioxide (CO2) supplements.

Always follow the above instructions to quarantine or sterilize the plants.

Follow the instructions below to transfer live plants to the display tank.

Let The Plants Get To Room Temperature

Let plants warm to room temperature after quarantine or sterilization. It reduces the risk of shocking the plants when they go into the display tank.

Add The Plants To Gravel

Pick the right kind of gravel for the plants.

Plants do best in softer substrates, like Fluval Stratum. These kinds of substrates contain nutrients to help with the health and growth of the plants. They also take up nutrients from the water for the roots to use.

These substrates are also easy for the plants’ roots to grip onto.

Don’t Use Sand

Sand is not ideal for plants as it holds little to no nutrients and is too fine for the roots to grasp. Likewise, avoid large gravel or river rocks since they are difficult for the roots to grasp.

Regular Gravel May Be Okay

Regular gravel usually works okay for easy, undemanding plants. Nutrient supplements may be necessary.

Don’t try to use regular gravel with pickier plants, or they won’t thrive.

Create Layers Of Plant Substrate & Gravel

The best thing to do is create a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) thick layer of plant substrate on the bottom of the aquarium. Add a 1-1.5 in (2.5-3.8 cm) thick layer of small gravel over top of the plant substrate.

Adding a layer of gravel on top of the plant substrate makes the aquarium look nicer. Most importantly, it helps hold the plants upright in the aquarium, even if the fish push them around.

The plant substrate below is suitable for securing and feeding the roots.

Adding The Water

Most aquarists add the gravel to their tank first and then add the water. We recommend filling the aquarium with water until it is about half full and then adding the plants.

Place a bowl or plate on the surface of the gravel and pour the water onto the dish. The dish allows the water to run gently over the substrate. It prevents the water from disturbing the substrate.

Adding the plants at this point ensures that the incoming water won’t disturb the plants. It also prevents the aquarist from submerging their whole arm in a full tank.

We don’t recommend adding plants before water is in the tank. The incoming water is likely to disturb or uproot the plants.

Without any water, there is nothing to support the plants, either. They are likely to droop over from their weight. Depending on how heavy the plant is, it might experience damage.

Securing Plants In The Substrate

To add the plants to the substrate, first create a small hole. Don’t expose the bottom of the aquarium; leave a little bit of substrate covering the bottom.

Place the roots inside the hole using your fingers or aquascaping tweezers. Push gravel around the roots and the base of the stem to secure the plant.

Attaching Plants To Hardscape

Some plants, like Anubias or java fern, don’t need to live in a substrate. They are happy to attach to hardscapes, like rocks and driftwood.

Add the driftwood and rocks after the substrate. Add them before the plants that are going in the substrate. Adding these first is easier because they are heavier and take up more room.

Use Aquarium-Safe Glue

To attach plants to a hardscape, use aquarium-safe glue, like Seachem Flourish Glue. Place a bit of glue on the base of the plant and press it into the hardscape.

Use Thin Thread

Thin thread is also suitable for attaching plants to hardscapes for those who prefer not to use glue. Thin brown thread is great because it’s difficult to see.

Wrap the thread around the plant’s base, roots, and the hardscape. After a few weeks, the roots should have grown enough to attach themselves to the hardscape.

Carefully remove the thread using a long pair of aquascaping scissors.

Do You Need To Acclimate Live Plants?

Most aquarium plants don’t need to acclimate to their new surroundings like fish do.

Some picky and difficult plants must acclimate to the temperature, pH, and hardness. Without acclimation, they may not survive the transition.

In these cases, acclimate the plants as you would a fish. Allow them to get used to the new water chemistry slowly.

The “bag” or “drip” acclimation methods are both suitable.

To know whether a plant needs acclimation, research its care requirements before buying. Harder-to-care-for or expensive plants typically need more specialized care.

Always acclimate the plants when in doubt; it won’t hurt.