How To Treat Fin Rot In Betta Fish

Fin rot causes a betta’s fins to look like they are ripping or melting away. The infection can be alarming, especially for new fish owners. The good news is that fin rot is treatable, especially when caught early.

Fin rot is prevalent in betta fish. They often live in small, cold bowls without filtration. The less-than-suitable conditions cause infection from the bacteria that causes fin rot.

What Is Fin Rot?

Hobbyists can help their bettas heal by giving them healthy living conditions. Nutritious food and minimizing stress also work.

For more severe infections, medications and aquarium salt work wonders.

What Is Fin Rot?

Fin rot, also known as fin melt, occurs due to a gram-negative bacterial infection. More severe cases of fin rot often develop a secondary fungal infection.

There are three types of bacteria that generally cause fin rot. These bacteria are Aeromonas, Pseudomonas, and Vibrio.

Fin rot is pervasive in betta fish because of their large, delicate fins. It is most common in unhealthy tanks where the dirty water eats away, or melts, the fish’s fins. The breakdown begins at the edges, slowly progressing further down the fins.

Fins with severe rot may look ripped or bloody. Fin rot that progresses long enough can reach the body and cause the skin to decay.

Fin rot is particularly common in betta fish bought from large pet stores. The fish often sit in tiny cups of dirty, unheated water for a long time before anyone buys them.

TIP

Bettas may have ripped fins due to fighting, tail biting, or tears from sharp decorations. These injuries are not the same as fin rot. The injuries can develop into fin rot if they don’t receive treatment and become infected.

The Causes Of Fin Rot

The most common cause of fin rot is unhealthy living conditions. Bettas, in particular, often live in tiny bowls with no heating or filtration.

The bacteria that cause fin rot are often present in the water already. A healthy fish can fight off the bacteria so it doesn’t affect them.

A fish experiencing stress or illness has a weakened immune system. They can no longer fight off the bacteria, which causes them to develop fin rot.

Here are some things that can cause stress:

  • A tank that is too small (under 5 gallons)
  • High levels of ammonia, nitrites, or nitrates (lack of cleaning & filtration & overfeeding)
  • Cold temperatures (Below 75°F (24°C))
  • Wrong pH levels
  • Nutritional deficiencies
  • Overcrowding
  • Aggressive tank mates

An Uncycled Tank

Poor water conditions are often a result of having an uncycled aquarium.

Almost everyone has heard the myth that bettas can live in small bowls.

Pet stores market bettas as easy beginner fish that need little care. Many beginners take bettas home without realizing what care they actually need.

Small bowls get dirty much quicker than larger tanks and are harder to keep clean. Many new owners do not put filters in their fish bowls.

Dirty, stagnant water is the perfect place for bacteria to grow and infect suffering fish.

The myth that bettas need little care is going away. Today, many new owners come prepared with heaters and filters.

Most of them have never heard of the nitrogen cycle, though.

The Nitrogen Cycle

The nitrogen cycle usually takes between two to six weeks and makes aquariums safe for fish.

Beginner hobbyists regularly buy their betta and tank at the same time. The tank has no time to go through the nitrogen cycle, which builds up beneficial bacteria. Good bacteria break down toxins and make the water safe for fish.

The water becomes toxic during the nitrogen cycle. High ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates are present in the water.

Bettas living in uncycled aquariums usually develop fin rot.

A Lack Of Nutrients

Bettas that don’t receive nutrient-rich foods will not be in the best health. Their immune systems suffer, and they cannot fight off pathogens like bacteria.

Bettas are obligate carnivores that need meaty, protein-rich foods to be healthy.

Choose flakes or pellets designed for bettas, as they have a high protein content. Avoid tropical fish foods because they don’t contain enough protein.

Give bettas a variety of foods. Switch up their flakes and pellets for some live, frozen (thawed), or freeze-dried foods.

Injury

Fin rot may develop from injury to the fins.

Sharp decorations and bullying from tank mates are common causes of injury. Their fin injuries are susceptible to infection without treatment.

How To Prevent Fin Rot

The best way to prevent fin rot is to keep the tank clean and ensure the water parameters are healthy and stable.

Prevent fin rot by doing these things:

  • Use a filter to keep the tank clean and a heater to keep the temperatures warm
  • Perform regular water testing and clean the tank at least once a week
  • Hobbyists should feed their bettas healthy, protein-rich foods to boost their immune systems
  • Avoid putting animals and decorations in the tank that may injure or stress the betta
  • Aggressive or fin-nipping tank mates, like most barbs and tetras, are unsuitable
  • Avoid decorations with sharp edges, like plastic plants
  • Choose live or silk plants instead, as they are gentle on delicate fins
    • Live plants are ideal for helping with the health of the water in the tank as well

Fin Rot Symptoms

Fin rot causes a betta’s fins to appear shredded or melted. How severe the condition presents depends on the infection’s progression and treatment.

Fin rot develops in three stages: Mild, moderate, and severe. How aggressively hobbyists treat fin rot depends on its current stage.

Fin rot is highly treatable, though it progresses quickly without treatment. The faster a hobbyist catches the deterioration, the easier it will be to help their betta.

Mild Fin Rot

New fin rot causes color loss and may appear white, brown, or red at the edges.

The fins appear somewhat frayed along the edges, though rot is minimal.

Moderate Fin Rot

As the infection progresses, the edges of the fins appear black or red and bloody.

The deterioration is more severe, causing the fins to look roughly jagged or ripped. The fins deteriorate in larger portions closer to the body. Bettas may begin to lose large chunks of their fins.

The fish may develop a secondary fungal infection, causing white, fuzzy growths.

Severe Fin Rot

Once the infection becomes critical, the base of the fins turns red from inflammation. The fins are often bloody, and the fish suffers almost total fin loss.

The white, fuzzy growth becomes more severe, often covering the remaining fins.

At this point, bettas usually struggle to swim. They are lethargic, spending most of their time at the bottom of their tank.

Columnaris

Severe fin rot can lead to Columnaris, another bacterial infection. Columnaris is more dangerous and harder to treat than fin rot. It can affect fish internally and externally and can kill quickly.

Body Rot

Fin rot that goes without treatment can progress to the fish’s body, causing its skin to rot. Once the infection reaches their body, it’s almost impossible to save them.

How Quickly Does Fin Rot Progress?

Fin rot progresses quickly, usually over a few days or weeks.

The worse the water conditions, the more quickly fin rot progresses.

A betta living in deplorable water conditions can develop severe fin rot in only a few days.

Is Fin Rot Painful?

Fin rot is painful for fish as their fins slough off their bodies.

Moderate to severe cases of fin rot often cause bleeding and fungal infections. Severe fin rot that spreads to the body is very painful.

Fish like to rub themselves against objects to relieve pain and irritation. Doing so often causes injury and more pain.

How To Treat Fin Rot

The good news is that fin rot is highly treatable and rarely fatal.

Bettas with mild fin rot should heal quickly. They may not need medications, which can be harsh and stressful.

More severe fin rot needs drastic intervention.

Test The Water

Hobbyists should test the water no matter the severity of the fin rot. Toxicity in the water or unfit pH levels are one of the biggest causes of fin rot.

Fix the pH levels if they are too low or high.

Raise the temperature if it’s too low. Most bettas need a heater to stay warm enough; hobbyists that don’t own a heater will need to buy one.

Clean The Tank

Hobbyists should immediately do a 50% water change if any water parameters are unsafe.

Several daily water changes may be necessary to get the ammonia and nitrite levels down to 0 ppm. The nitrate levels should remain below 40 ppm.

Use a gravel vacuum to remove the water to get old fish food and waste from between the substrate.

Hobbyists should buy a filter and add it to the tank if they don’t already have one. They work wonderfully to remove toxins from the water and keep the tank healthy.

Testing the water and cleaning the tank is often enough to heal mild fin rot. Hobbyists will likely need to do many water changes over a week or two. It’s rare to fix high toxicity levels with a single water change.

Move The Betta To A Quarantine Tank

Moving the fish to a quarantine tank isn’t usually necessary for mild fin rot, though it can speed up healing.

Once the condition progresses, a hospital tank is the safest way to go.

It allows the hobbyist more control and is easier to keep clean.

Hospital tanks are usually smaller, reducing stress on bettas struggling to swim.

Equip the hospital tank with a heater and filter. Add a decoration(s) that isn’t sharp — it will provide a hiding space and prevent stress.

TIP

Move the betta to a hospital tank if they normally live with other fish, even if the infection is mild. Other fish can cause stress and may nip at the already injured fins, worsening the condition.

Mix Aquarium Salt Into The Water

Aquarium salt is beneficial regardless of the severity of the fin rot. It is necessary for all fish suffering from moderate to severe fin rot.

The salt promotes the production of the betta’s protective slime coat. It helps with healing and reduces stress.

Mix and dissolve the salt into new water before adding it to the aquarium. Follow the instructions on the package to know how much salt to use.

Be careful only to use products specifically labeled “aquarium salt.” DO NOT use table salt or salt used for saltwater tanks.

Don’t treat aquariums with invertebrates or plants with aquarium salt, as it will kill them. Move the betta to a hospital tank for treatment if their main tank has plants or inverts.

Use Medications

Antibiotic medications become necessary once the fin rot has become severe.

They can help moderate cases of fin rot, though it’s usually unnecessary for mild cases.

NEVER stop treatment early or skip a dose. Doing so gives the bacteria time to build up a resistance to the antibiotic.

Good antibiotics for fin rot:

  • Maracyn ii
  • Kanamycin
  • Kanaplex
  • Erythromycin
  • Methylene Blue (for fungal infections)
TIP

Add an airstone to the aquarium to maintain healthy oxygen levels in the tank. Medications reduce the amount of oxygen in the tank.

The betta is likely to be struggling to breathe and swim at this point. It may not be able to get to the surface of the aquarium.

Remove any activated carbon from the filter, as it will remove medication from the water.

Indian Almond Leaves

Hobbyists can add Indian almond leaves to the water to promote healing. They release tannins, which are naturally healing and stress-relieving.

Simply place the leaves on the water’s surface or inside the filter.

Can Fin Rot Heal Without Treatment?

Fin rot will not heal without some kind of treatment.

Fin rot may be mild, and the caretaker may only need to clean the tank and change the water. That is still considered “treatment” and will help heal the fish.

Noticing a fish has fin rot and doing nothing to help their situation will not result in healed fins.

More often than not, the water parameters are off. The water parameters will not improve without intervention. The betta’s fin rot will worsen as a result.

How To Tell If A Betta’s Fins Are Healing

A betta healing from fin rot will not have any new damage. The rotting of their fins should stop.

A fish healing from fin rot will start to get its energy and appetite back.

It’s easy to tell if a betta’s fins are beginning to grow back because the edges turn transparent with new growth. The new fins will look healthy and uniform around the edges.

There won’t be any fraying around the edges like there would be if fin rot were still occurring.

The new growth on the fins is exceptionally delicate. Keep decorations to a minimum and keep the betta isolated to prevent injury.

Note that a betta’s new fins may not look exactly as they did before the infection. They may have a slightly different shape and may not be as long as before.

After Treatment

Fin rot may recur after treatment.

Treatment is stressful, and the new fins are delicate. It may take a few treatments for a betta to be completely healed.

Follow all the steps above to prevent fin rot from happening again.

Keep the tank clean and the water parameters healthy and stable. Avoid sharp decorations and nippy tank mates. Feed the fish lots of nutritious, protein-dense foods.

Is Fin Rot Contagious?

Fin rot is not contagious, though poor water conditions usually cause it.

It is likely that if one fish develops fin rot, the other fish are also experiencing stress. They will likely develop fin rot too.

FAQs

Why Do Bettas’ Fins Stick Together?

Fin clamping is a condition that causes a fish’s fins to stick together.

Like fin rot, fin clamping is a common symptom of poor water quality. Low temperatures, nutritional deficiencies, and other stressors can also cause fin clamping.

Why Do Bettas Bite Their Tails?

No one knows for sure why bettas bite their tails, though they likely do it because of stress.

Some hobbyists say they do it when they get bored.

Owners can try giving their fish a bigger tank and more decorations. These offer mental stimulation and may stop tail biting if the fish is bored.

Kaylee Keech
About Kaylee Keech
Kaylee has a large goldfish tank filled with feeders she 'rescued' from her old job at the pet store. She also has two small, freshwater community tanks. Her favorite fish became the seahorse after she cared for one during her marine biology course. It's one of her dreams to set up a seahorse tank in her home.

Fin Rot: What Is It and How Can I Treat It?

Fish diseases can be a nightmare for beginner aquarists. If you go too long without water changes or let a fin nipping tank mate have their way, fin rot can arise in healthy fish.

Fin Rot

While the infection usually starts off small, if left untreated it can progress all the way to the body. Affected fish will eventually die if things don’t improve.

In this article, I’ll explain what Fin Rot is and how to best treat this common fish disease.

Disclaimer: I do want to say that I am not a licensed veterinarian and this content is purely based on my personal experience.


What is Fin Rot?

Fin Rot is caused by one of two groups of microorganisms: bacteria or fungi. Pseudomonas, Aeromonas, or Vibrio are the gram-negative bacteria that cause the disease. Any number of aquatic fungi can infect fish fins.

Knowing which organism is causing the infection is important because they don’t respond to the same medicines. Bacterial fin rot can be identified by inflamed blood vessels within the infected fins.

Symptoms of Fin Rot

The main symptoms of fin rot in aquarium fish include visibly decaying fins. The rotting edge will be inflamed red or a pale, dead white, but usually has little material buildup. Frayed fin rays are sometimes left intact however the webbing is eaten away by the infection.

fin rot betta fish
Dizzy Respect / CC BY-SA

Fungal fin rot is quite different. You may see inflamed blood vessels in heavy infections but when the disease first progresses fins can look otherwise normal. However, cottony patches of clear or white growths are the hallmark of a fungal infection. Fungal Fin Rot tends to melt the entire fin, leaving nothing behind.

These growths can occur anywhere an open wound exists, including on the body, mouth, and even the eyes. However, fins are the most delicate tissues so we usually encounter infections here.

Over time, if the fish’s immune system can’t beat back the infection, the disease eats its way up the fin and can even spread to the body. Rotten or lost fins prevent fish from swimming normally, getting the food they need, and avoiding harassment.

Fin Rot is a slow death but easily fatal if allowed to progress this far. Fortunately, when caught early, Fin Rot is highly treatable and something most aquarists successfully save their fish from. By following this guide you can certainly get your fish healthy again.

fin rot example
André Karwath aka Aka / CC BY-SA

Causes of Fin Rot

Fin Rot almost never simply appears. It usually takes the combination of an open wound and poor water quality for it to arise.

However, aquarium fish kept in very dirty water can spontaneously develop Fin Rot (or other infections) without an obvious wound. High levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate depress immune responses and make it possible for germs to take hold.

Betta fish are especially prone to Fin Rot because their long, trailing fins provide plenty of surface area for infection to take hold. Betta fish are also usually kept in small bowls or tanks where overfeeding and poor water quality leads to prime conditions for bacteria and fungi.

In cleaner aquariums and community tanks, it usually takes an injury for Fin Rot to occur. Nippy fish, such as Tiger Barbs, may rip a small chunk of the fin from a Gourami, which may then become infected.

Rapid changes in water parameters can shock aquarium fish similar to how cold temperatures lead to an increase in the flu in humans. When performing water changes, are you ensuring that the replacement water is relatively close to the same temperature as the aquarium?

Making large adjustments of more than 3 to 5 degrees at a time can lead to Fin Rot, Ich, and other diseases.

Territorial squabbles among tank mates are another common cause of Fin Rot. Cichlids, Betta fish, Stingrays, and other fish prone to social jockeying, breeding matches, or territorial fights will often develop Fin Rot after their bouts.

The added stress of not being able to fully escape the aggressor in an aquarium also depresses their immune systems and increases their chances of infected wounds.


Product Commonly Used to Cure Fin Rot

In this section we will discuss a few specific products that can be used to cure fin rot:

Aquarium Salt

Aquarium Salt is a product nearly every aquarist should be using. It’s useful for all fish and can be used in the treatment of nearly any disease. While it isn’t a cure-all, salt helps fish recover much more quickly!

The exact amount is a bit flexible. And it depends both on the species of fish as well as where you plan to treat them. Livebearers, rift lake Cichlids, and other hard water, salt-tolerant fish should get a heavier dose when treating Fin Rot. Soft water fish like Discus and Bettas need less.

If you intend to treat the entire aquarium, start with a tablespoon per 3 gallons and increase up to one teaspoon per gallon over the course of 3 days. A tablespoon per 3 gallons is actually perfect as a general soothing remedy even when your fish isn’t sick.

Aquarium Salt boosts gill function and stimulates healthy slime coat production. Aquarium fish slime coats are a barrier to infection. And a thin or damaged slime layer is an entry point for the germs that cause Fin Rot!

Once the infection begins to subside, use water changes to bring the salt levels back down to your preferred level. You should be doing water changes the moment you see Fin Rot as germ-rich water is the primary cause.

A hospital tank can be left at one tablespoon per gallon indefinitely. However, you should acclimate your fish up to this level; do not simply move them from pure freshwater directly into this lightly salted setup.

While fairly effective on its own, Aquarium Salt will work far better when paired with one of the following proven remedies for Fin Rot!

Melafix

Melafix is one of my favorite products. It is used for treating not only bacterial Fin Rot but infected body wounds, inflamed gills, and other bacterial issues.

This product uses Tea Tree Oil, the same antibacterial agent found in Tea Tree Essential Oils. Tea Tree Oil is also used in aromatherapy and antibacterial/antifungal soaps. Melafix is formulated specifically for aquarium fish bacterial infections but is also effective for fungal Fin Rot.

The smell is instantly familiar once you open the bottle; a powerful antiseptic odor promising good results. Melafix will cause a white foam to form at the surface of your freshwater aquarium. This looks a little alarming but is entirely harmless. The tea tree smell may pervade the entire room as well so hopefully, you’re a fan of the aroma.

Follow dosing instructions carefully because Melafix is a fairly potent medication. Be particularly careful when treating scaleless fish, like Loaches, Stingrays, some Catfish, and fish fry or eggs.

While API says their product is perfectly safe for these delicate cases the fact remains that they tend to absorb more medication due to their lack of scales. A Melafix immersion bath might be worth trying first if you’re afraid to lose an especially delicate or expensive fish!

You also need to remove any activated charcoal in your filtration unit when using Melafix. As an organic oil, it will bind to aquarium charcoal and eventually be removed from circulation.

Pimafix

Pimafix is the fungus-specific product API made for fin, mouth, and body infections. Like Melafix, it is a plant-based medicine, based on the extract of the West Indian Bay Tree. Chefs and lovers of fine cuisine will recognize the distinctive aroma of Bay Leaf – often paired with seafood – and should find it less pungent and overwhelming than Melafix.

Again, remember that Pimafix is a powerful agent so consider carefully whether to treat an entire tank with scaleless or sensitive fish. An immersion bath or hospital tank may be the better option.

You also need to remove activated charcoal when using Pimafix to keep it in circulation as long as possible.

Furan-2

Furan-2 is a highly effective antibacterial remedy that treats bacterial Fin Rot as well as red, inflamed patches on the skin, eyes, and even interior infections. It is highly effective and is a product all aquarists should have on hand.

I strongly recommend using Furan-2 in a hospital aquarium because it is a broad-spectrum antibiotic and can disrupt your cycling bacteria. While using it, continue to test ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

If you see a spike, do appropriate water changes while continuing the medication course, and be ready to dial back feedings while your beneficial bacteria recover. Products like API QuickStart can help expedite the cycling process by directly providing new nitrifying bacteria!

Methylene Blue

Methylene Blue is an old-school fish medication that’s gentle in comparison to Melafix or Pimafix and can be used to treat an entire aquarium with few concerns.

The only real issue is that it will turn the water blue for an extended period. It will also temporarily stain your skin navy blue (I ALWAYS manage to get some on me somehow) and can permanently stain clothing and other items.

Methylene Blue is specific to fungal infections so go with another agent if you have bacterial Fin Rot. This chemical also treats external parasitic infections such as Ich and Fish Lice and fungal infections on fish eggs.

However, it ranges from safe to toxic to invertebrates and it’s not usually possible to know for sure how each species will respond beforehand. Anyone keeping snails, shrimp, or other creatures should avoid treating the entire tank with Methylene Blue and stick to immersions or a hospital aquarium.

Many live plants are sensitive to Methylene Blue and may be weakened by a tank-wide treatment.

Like the other agents, activated charcoal will bind and remove Methylene Blue so remove this from your filter before using.


Treating and Curing Fin Rot

There are three main ways of treating Fin Rot and I’m presenting them in order of least to most effectiveness.

I should mention that in all cases we want to raise temperatures a few degrees (3-5 degrees, but no higher than 84F) above the normal range to boost fish metabolisms and help them fight off Fin Rot.

Immersion Treatment of Infected Fish

For those with limited time and space, immersion treatments can offer fish a chance to recover from Fin Rot. I generally use immersion when I have a tank of sensitive fish or invertebrates that can’t tolerate the above medications but don’t have access to a separate hospital aquarium.

Immersion treatments should be stronger than normal, up to 50% stronger, but only for around 5 minutes. Water temperature should be identical; simply tank a small container of aquarium water and net the infected fish.

Place the fish within the bucket or jar, wait five minutes, and then return them to the aquarium. Immersion treatments can be done once a day for up to a week.

Of all the methods here immersions are the least effective as sustained contact with the medication helps it penetrate and kill germs better.

Treating the Entire Aquarium

Blanket treatment of aquariums is the most common way people treat Fin Rot and other diseases. So long as you don’t have other freshwater fish or invertebrates that will be harmed by Aquarium Salt or medications, this is fine to do.

Remember that activated charcoal will pull out all of the above medications except for Aquarium Salt. And that antibacterial chemicals (specifically Furan-2) can impact your aquarium’s nitrifying bacteria, which will cause cycling-related issues.

Moving the Infected Fish to a Hospital Tank

Hospital tanks are the best way to treat Fin Rot because the disease responds to treatment fairly slowly. It can take 1-2 weeks for inflamed or fuzzy fins to shed dead, infected material and heal enough for a fish to return to the main aquarium.

Hospital tanks allow you to dose heavily, alter water temperatures, and add liberal amounts of Aquarium Salt without affecting other fish, plants, invertebrates, or your filter media. And since hospital tanks are usually smaller, you need less medication and Aquarium Salt as well.

When your hospital tank isn’t needed for sick freshwater fish, it can always be ready for breeding, raising fish fry, or even live foods like Daphnia or Fairy Shrimp.


Conclusion

Fin Rot is only lethal if we allow it to spread. Inspect your fish daily for signs of injury – Fin Rot is usually obvious. Pay special attention to fish that are prone to squabbles or have long, flowing fins.

So long as you leap into action with water changes and the right medication, your fish are sure to bounce back healthier than ever.

Frequently Asked Questions About Fin Rot

Fin rot is a difficult disease to treat, especially in Betta fish and other pets with long fins. So here are a few more care tips on how to treat and prevent fin rot.

How Do You Treat Fin Rot?

Fin rot can be treated through the use of medications formulated to kill disease-causing bacteria and fungi. I’ve chosen several of the most effective to share with you in the above product section.

Can Fish Survive Fin Rot?

Most fish species can survive fin rot. But the longer the disease has to progress the harder it is. And even if the fish does survive its fins may be permanently damaged. Long-finned pets like Betta fish can have wounds that never fully heal if the disease makes it to the roots of the fin. So treating it quickly is very important.

What Causes Fin Rot?

The best medicine is to prevent fin rot from happening in the first place. And in order to prevent fin rot, we need to ensure our fish have clean water conditions. The bacteria and fungi that cause fish’s fins to decay thrive in poor water quality. If you’ve gone too long without water changes, overfeed your fish, or don’t have a strong enough filter, any open wound can get infected. If an aggressive fish species attacks a fish’s fins these wounds can quickly turn into fin rot.

BYA Editorial Staff
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