A betta with an enlarged stomach is likely suffering from bloat. The condition is awkward and uncomfortable for the fish. The good news is that it’s rarely fatal with treatment.
Most bettas get bloat from constipation or swim bladder disorder. Dropsy and Malawi bloat are less common causes, though far more fatal.
Hobbyists will want to address the condition immediately. Doing so will hopefully prevent their betta’s condition from progressing.
What Is Bloating?
Bloating is a condition in which a fish’s abdomen swells, making it difficult to swim.
Bloating is not a disease; it is a condition that stems from various other issues. A swollen abdomen is a secondary symptom most common with constipation.
Bloat is particularly common in betta fish. Fortunately, the condition is rarely serious and usually gets better with treatment.
Bloated Betta Fish Appearance
It’s obvious when a betta has bloat because their abdomen swells and becomes prominent. The swelling may occur on one side of the body or both.
Bloating is uncomfortable and awkward, making swimming difficult.
Bloat often appears alongside swim bladder disorder, which causes trouble with buoyancy. The betta may become stuck floating at the top, unable to move lower in the water column.
Causes Of Bloating
Most bettas get bloating because of constipation or swim bladder disease. Less commonly, bettas with dropsy may get bloat. Malawi bloat comes from infection and is rare amongst bettas.
Constipation & Its Causes
One of the primary causes of bloat in betta fish is constipation.
Overfeeding
Caretakers, especially new ones, frequently overfeed their bettas. Overfeeding leads to constipation, which progresses into bloat.
Only feed bettas once to twice a day. They should only eat about two to three pellets per meal, or an equal amount of other betta foods.
Always soak dry foods before feeding them to bettas. They will expand in the water, taking up more space in the betta’s stomach.
Soaking them first prevents caretakers from giving them too much food.
Nutritionally-Deficient Food
Bettas can get digestive problems if they aren’t eating the right foods. Not all the foods on the market are healthy for bettas.
Make sure to pick flakes or pellets explicitly designed for bettas. These foods should be high in protein content and have lots of nutrients.
DO NOT feed tropical fish flakes; they don’t contain enough protein.
Give the betta variety; don’t feed them the same thing every day. Switch their flakes and pellets for live, frozen (thawed), or freeze-dried foods. Bloodworms and daphnia are particular favorites.
Remember to soak freeze-dried foods before offering them.
Low Water Temperatures
Bettas are tropical fish that need temperatures between 75-81°F (23.9-27.2°C). Waters that are too cold can cause constipation and bloat.
Bettas don’t do well in too-cold waters. Their immune systems are less effective, and they are more susceptible to sickness.
Their metabolisms drop, and they are unable to digest their food properly. Slow digestion leads to constipation.
Not Enough Exercise
Bored bettas lounge around their tanks and don’t get as much exercise as they need. Like any animal, bettas need exercise to stay fit and to help with their digestive processes.
Bettas are intelligent animals that need plenty of mental stimulation.
Try providing more enrichment if the betta seems too bored. More decorations, plants, hiding spots, and toys encourage bettas to explore.
Swim Bladder Disorder & Its Causes
The swim bladder is an organ that controls buoyancy, helping a betta to move up and down in the water. It is very common for bloated bettas to also have swim bladder issues.
Bettas with swim bladder problems have trouble swimming. They may get stuck at the bottom or top of their tank.
Swim bladder disorder in bettas usually occurs because of overfeeding and constipation.
Here are some other causes of swim bladder disorder:
- Poor water conditions
- Cold water
- Shock
- Nutritionally-deficient food
- Genetics
- Injury
- Parasitic infection
- Bacterial infection
- Kidney cysts
- Egg-binding
Dropsy
Dropsy is fatal secondary symptom. It occurs because of other internal illnesses or infections. It is most common in parasitic, bacterial, and viral infections.
Dropsy usually begins because of kidney failure or liver infections. Other causes are nutritionally-deficient food, old age, or poor water conditions.
A fish that has dropsy is severely ill and has been sick for a long time, which is why it’s difficult to treat.
Fluid builds up inside the body. It puts pressure on the betta’s abdominal cavity and causes bloat.
Malawi Bloat
Like dropsy, Malawi bloat is a secondary symptom. It occurs due to a bacterial or parasitic infection.
Malawi bloat is incredibly rare for betta fish. The condition is more common in cichlids.
Symptoms Of Bloating
The primary symptom of bloat is an enlarged, swollen belly. Every betta with bloat will have swelling regardless of the condition’s cause.
Other symptoms vary depending on the betta’s primary condition.
Symptoms of Constipation
Constipation is the most common cause of bloating in bettas and is pretty easy to spot. Owners must track their betta’s appetite and how much they’re pooping.
Lethargy
Bettas suffering from constipation may become lethargic as they have difficulty swimming.
Loss Of Appetite
They are likely to lose interest in food and may stop eating altogether.
Healthy bettas have hearty appetites. They will continue eating as long as food is available. Bettas don’t understand when they’re “full,” which is why they’re easy to overfeed.
A betta that doesn’t want to eat is not healthy.
Difficulty Pooping
Bettas will have trouble pooping and may be unable to defecate at all. An inability to poop is the clearest sign of constipation.
Unfortunately, many owners miss the signs by not checking on the fish enough.
Hobbyists should check their betta’s tank regularly for signs of defecation. Catching constipation early can prevent bloat and other worse problems.
A healthy betta should poop a few times a day. They’ll poop more often the more they eat and the warmer the water is.
Betta poop usually appears as long, dark brown strings, and they may take on some of the colors of eaten food.
Symptoms Of Swim Bladder Disorder
The primary symptom of swim bladder disorder is uncontrollable sinking or floating. Bettas cannot move up or down easily in the water column.
Floating that leaves bettas exposed to the air for too long can cause sores and ulcers. Sinking can eventually lead to suffocation since bettas must periodically surface for air.
Other symptoms of swim bladder disorder depend on the cause of the condition.
Symptoms due to constipation:
- Enlarged abdomen
- Curving spine
- Loss of appetite
- Lethargy & trouble swimming
Symptoms due to shock:
- Rapid breathing
- Gasping
- Lethargy
- Loss of color
Symptoms due to parasitic or bacterial infections:
- Flashing
- Transparent, stringy poop
- Redness & Inflammation
- Fin clamping
Symptoms Of Dropsy
The primary symptoms of dropsy are bloat and pineconing.
Pineconing refers to the fish’s scales pointing away from the body. They stick outward due to the pressure on their internal organs. The fish looks like a pinecone when observed from above.
Other symptoms of dropsy include:
- Lethargy
- Loss of appetite
- Hiding
- Curved spine
- Clamped fins
- Trouble swimming
- Color loss
Symptoms Of Malawi Bloat
Besides abdominal swelling, bettas may lose their appetite and struggle to breathe. They often spend much time gasping for air at the top of the tank.
It doesn’t seem that researchers know much about Malawi bloat yet.
Treatment For Bloating
Bloat due to constipation and swim bladder disorder is very treatable. The earlier a caretaker catches bloat, the more treatable it is.
Bloat caused by dropsy or Malawi bloat is far more fatal. Successful treatment is rare, though some hobbyists have success.
Constipation
The good news is that constipation is easy to treat. Bettas with constipation-caused bloat have high survival rates.
Fasting
The first step for treating a betta with constipation is to fast them. Don’t feed them anything for one to two days. Sometimes, this is all a caretaker needs to do to clear up their betta’s constipation.
Raise The Water Temperature
Warmer temperatures increase metabolism, helping push food through the digestive system.
Slowly increase the temperature to 80-82°F (26.7-27.8°C).
Feed Daphnia
Feed the betta daphnia if they are still constipated after a few days. Daphnia is high in fiber and helps move digestion along.
Frozen (thawed), live, or freeze-dried daphnia all work well. Remember to soak freeze-dried daphnia before feeding.
Do not feed bettas peas as many sources suggest. Peas work great for goldfish, who are also prone to constipation. Bettas are obligate carnivores that can’t digest plant matter — peas won’t help.
Epsom Salt Bath
Sometimes, Epsom salt baths are necessary when fasting, and daphnia doesn’t do the trick.
Epsom salt baths work great for relieving constipation quickly. Many bettas begin pooping a few minutes after entering the bath. Others may take longer, though the bath usually works within 24 hours.
Be sure to closely follow all directions and use the correct amount of salt. Too much salt can cause a betta to go into shock, which can be deadly.
Immediately remove the fish from the bath and place them back in their tank if they are not moving.
Instructions for Epsom salt baths:
- Prepare 1 gallon of conditioned tap water and place it in a clean container.
- Mix 1 tablespoon of Epsom salt into the water — ensure it dissolves completely.
- Mix half a gallon of water from the betta’s tank into the container.
- Hobbyists should replace the water they took from the tank. Use fresh, conditioned water.
- Place the betta in the container and allow it to rest for 10 to 15 minutes.
- Bettas should not remain in the bath for longer than 15 minutes
- Place the betta back into its usual tank.
- Check on the betta throughout the day to see if they’re pooping and are more active.
Swim Bladder Disorder
Treating swim bladder disorder-induced bloat depends on the cause of the primary problem.
Use the same treatment as above for Constipation-induced swim bladder disorder.
For shock, there’s not much caretakers can do. Keep the water warm and the tank dark to reduce the fish’s stress.
Hobbyists will need to treat infections with medications. The type of medication depends on whether the infection is parasitic or bacterial.
Can A Betta Recover From Swim Bladder Disorder?
Bettas can recover from swim bladder disorders and often do — they’re highly treatable.
Fish are most likely to recover from swim bladder problems due to constipation. Those dealing with shock or infection have a higher mortality rate.
Dropsy
Late-stage dropsy is nearly always fatal. Some quick-acting owners can save their fish with the proper treatment.
Antibiotics are essential for treating dropsy. More natural treatments won’t help at this stage.
Many bettas won’t survive exposure to medication because they are weak.
Besides medication, aquarium salt is best for treating dropsy as it draws fluid from the body.
Caretakers should keep the water quality pristine and raise the water temperatures. They should place an airstone in the tank to help with oxygen intake.
Bettas with dropsy are in severely poor health and need all the help they can get. Clean water and extra oxygen help relieve some stress and promote healing.
Malawi Bloat
Keep the waters pristine and feed nutritious foods. It is the best treatment we know of for Malawi bloat.
Researchers are still determining whether Malawi bloat comes from bacteria or parasites. Not knowing the exact cause makes it difficult to treat.
Unfortunately, most cases of Malawi bloat are fatal.
How To Prevent Bloat
The best thing to do is prevent bloat from occurring in the first place.
It’s not difficult to prevent bloat. Bettas with clean, warm environments and nutritious food usually stay healthy. Be sure not to feed them too much.
Provide A Large Enough Tank
Giving a betta a large enough tank to maintain water parameters is essential for health.
Small tanks are more challenging to keep stable and clean. The water is more likely to be toxic and dirty.
Bettas living in small bowls or tanks will likely become stressed and bored. Their immune systems become compromised, leaving them susceptible to sickness.
A tank of at least five gallons is easier to care for. It also provides room for bettas to explore, preventing boredom and stress.
Keep The Tank Clean
The most important thing aquarists can do for their fish is to provide them with a clean tank.
Keep the tank clean by doing 15-30% water changes once to twice a week.
Aquariums under ten gallons should receive cleaning twice weekly. Ten gallons are okay with weekly cleanings.
Use a gravel vacuum to pull waste from the substrate.
Install a low-flow heater that can catch waste and prevent toxins from building up.
Keep The Water Warm
Bettas are tropical fish that need warm water between 75-81°F (23.9-27.2°C). They are far less likely to develop illness, infection, or bloat if their tanks stay warm.
Maintain Stable Water Parameters
Maintaining stable water conditions is as important as providing the correct water parameters. Bettas are sensitive to big shifts in pH and temperature.
Don’t Overfeed
Since constipation is the most common cause of bloat, avoiding overfeeding is necessary.
Give bettas about two to three pellets of food at a time or equal amounts of other foods.
They should only get food once or twice a day. Remove any uneaten food from the tank after two to three minutes.
Fasting
Fasting bettas when they are healthy is a bit controversial. It can prevent constipation, regardless.
To fast a healthy betta, simply forgo feeding them one day every week. Not eating for a day gives their digestive system time to get rid of any leftover food and waste.
Provide Nutritious Foods
Feeding bettas unhealthy foods can be as bad as overfeeding them. They need high-quality foods from reputable brands that are high in protein.
Avoid foods made for other fish, like tropical fish flakes. They don’t contain enough protein or the right nutrients.
Switch up their foods to give fish more nutrition and prevent boredom. Offer a variety of pellets or flakes, frozen (thawed), freeze-dried, or live options.
Avoid Injury
Injuries can lead to infection, which can result in bloat.
Avoid sharp decorations and objects that may cut a betta’s skin, like hard plastic plants.
Only keep bettas with peaceful fish that will not bully them or pick at their fins.
FAQs
How Can You Tell If A Betta Is Pregnant Or Bloated?
It can sometimes be challenging to tell if a female betta fish has bloat or is full of eggs. Caretakers will need to observe their betta for other signs of pregnancy.
The most obvious signs of pregnancy are:
- White vertical stripes
- A dark spot under the anal fin
A female full of eggs will eventually expel her eggs into the water column if there isn’t a male to mate with. The bloating will decrease, and she will appear normal again.
* TIP
Betta fish don’t really get pregnant. They fill up with unfertilized eggs they release when mating. *
Does My Betta Fish Have Bloat Or A Tumor?
Hobbyists may sometimes mistake tumors for bloating.
Tumors sometimes occur in bettas, particularly older ones. There’s not much anyone can do to treat them.
Bettas with non-cancerous tumors can often live for a long time.
The best thing to do is keep their tank clean and provide them with nutritious food. Supportive care keeps them comfortable until their time is up.
Why Did My Betta’s Stomach Explode?
It’s possible, though rare, for a betta’s stomach to explode. The horrifying phenomenon occurs when there is too much pressure in the abdomen. The excess pressure causes the organs to burst.
The bloat must be severe for this to happen, and betta fish usually suffer from dropsy as well.
Severe kidney failure and bacterial and parasitic infections can also cause rupture.
It’s impossible to save a betta whose stomach exploded — the condition is always fatal.
Should You Euthanize A Betta With Bloat?
In most cases, bloat is treatable, and euthanasia is unnecessary.
Whether an owner should euthanize their fish depends on the fish’s condition. It also depends on whether they’re responding to treatment.
It’s kinder to euthanize a fish that is clearly suffering and isn’t responding to treatment.
Can Fish Die From Constipation?
In most cases, constipation will not become fatal with treatment.
Fish sometimes need a bit of extra help to pass their feces.
Hobbyists should never ignore constipation in their fish. It can become fatal if not addressed.
Constipation can worsen until a fish can no longer pass any waste at all. A complete blockage can become fatal in only a few days.
