Seeing a brilliantly-colored betta turn white or fade in color can be disconcerting. You may be asking yourself, why is my betta fish turning white?
There are many reasons why a betta might turn white, though it usually involves illness or stress. Bettas that turn pale may have poor living conditions or nutritional deficiencies. Or, other fish may be bullying them.
Paleness can also be a sign of hard-to-see illness or infection.
White spots or patches almost always indicate a bacterial, fungal, or parasitic infection. Infections need immediate treatment. Without treatment, infections can spread and kill more fish.
Some of the most common infections to cause white spots are:
The good news is that hobbyists can help their bettas regain their color. They can do this by treating their illnesses and improving their environment.
Caretakers can improve coloring by carefully choosing the right decorations. Nutritious foods help bring out color as well.
Why Do Betta Fish Turn White?
Illness and infection regularly cause fish to turn white. While there are other instances where a fish may turn white, illness is most common.
Usually, illness and infection won’t cause the betta’s entire body to turn white. They’ll get white spots or patches on small areas of the body that may grow as the problem progresses.
A fish experiencing complete color loss may be dealing with an illness. It’s possible there may be a different problem.
Total color loss may occur due to illness, stress, old age, or death.
Columnaris
Columnaris is a bacterial infection caused by the Flavobacterium columnare bacteria.
There are two strains of Columnaris; one is far deadlier than the other. One strain can kill a fish in only 24 to 48 hours — treatment is often useless. The other strain progresses more slowly but needs immediate treatment.
Bettas develop whitish-gray fungus-like patches along the body. Besides abnormal growth, bettas may experience ulcers on their bodies and scale loss.
Columnaris infections are common when a betta is experiencing severe fin rot.
Hobbyists should use antibiotic medications to treat Columnaris. It helps to add aquarium salt to the water and to lower the water temperature.
Ich
Ich is an infection that occurs due to the ectoparasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis.
The parasites have three life stages. Unfortunately, medications only kill them during one of these stages.
Ich can be tricky to treat, though it is rarely fatal if hobbyists take immediate action.
Bettas develop white spots on their fins, gills, and bodies.
Bettas may only have a few spots when the infection is mild. As the condition progresses, more white spots (i.e., parasites) appear on the body.
Don’t confuse ich with other bacterial and fungal infections that cause white growth. Ich is distinctive in that it forms uniform white spots that look like grains of salt or sugar.
Fish usually develop ich when they are experiencing stress. Improper quarantine of new fish is another frequent cause of infection spreading.
To treat ich, hobbyists will need antiparasitic medication and aquarium salt.
Fin Rot
As the name suggests, fin rot is a bacterial infection that causes a betta’s fins to rot from its body.
Fin rot begins at the edges of the fins, melting the fins and causing fraying.
The edges of the fins often appear white, though they may be red or black. The still-healthy portions of the fins usually remain their regular color.
As fin rot becomes more severe, larger portions of the betta’s fins may turn white as they rot.
Severe fin rot may develop a secondary fungal infection. Fungi grow on the fins, appearing fuzzy and white. They often grow across what remains of the betta’s fins, which is rarely much.
Fin rot most often occurs from stress and poor water conditions.
Aquarists should thoroughly clean the tank and use aquarium salt to treat fin rot. Severe cases of infection will need medication.
Anchor Worms
Anchor worms are a parasite that is easily noticeable. Their white, thread-like bodies protrude from the fish’s skin.
These parasites are not really worms — they are Lernaea crustaceans.
Anchor worms generally appear in a tank from improper quarantine. They may hitchhike into aquariums on new fish, inverts, or plants.
More experienced hobbyists can pull the anchor worms from the fish’s body with a pair of tweezers. Removing the parasites is usually relatively easy and provides relief to the fish.
Aquarium salt is great for mild to moderate infections as it kills parasites. More severe infections likely need treatment with anti-parasitic medications.
Fungal Infections
Fungi can appear on a betta’s body in the form of fuzzy, white growths. The fungi often target the gills, though they also grow on the body and fins.
Fungal infections are almost always secondary infections caused by a more serious condition. These infections often occur after a parasitic or bacterial infection.
To treat a fungal infection, hobbyists must figure out the primary issue.
Keep the aquarium very clean and mix aquarium salt into the water. Many infections need treatment with antifungal medications.
Color Loss
A change of color or color loss does not always indicate a sick fish. Many hobbyists say their betta is “turning white” when it is actually becoming duller.
Bettas may lose some of their colors for various reasons. Illness is one reason, though stress is more common. Stress that occurs for too long can develop into illness.
Bettas lose some of their colors as they age and become pale when they die. A betta fish may even be pale simply because it’s sleeping.
It can be challenging to notice color loss in a betta fish immediately. The color change is not always drastic — they often fade slowly. Many owners don’t realize their fish looks pale until they see other signs of distress.
It’s a good idea for hobbyists to check on their fish daily. Doing so will make them more likely to spot changes.
Having a picture of the fish is helpful. Owners can look back at the photo and compare the color to how it looks now.
Stress
Any stress can cause a betta to lose some of its colors.
The fish develop dark, horizontal stripes along the length of their bodies. We refer to these as stress stripes.
A happy betta will be its usual bright self and be active with a healthy appetite.
Bettas dealing with stress may become lethargic and lose their appetite. Stressed bettas have weakened immune systems that leave them susceptible to illness.
Poor Water Quality
Living in unhealthy water conditions is the most common issue bettas face. New hobbyists don’t know the care bettas need and place them into bowls without filtration.
Poor water quality can be uncomfortable for fish. It can even be painful if the conditions are bad enough.
A healthy tank should have these water parameters:
- Ammonia: 0 ppm
- Nitrites: 0 ppm
- Nitrates: >40 ppm
- pH: 6.5-7.5
Cold Temperatures
Bettas are tropical fish and don’t do well in cold water. Cold water causes stress and may cause bettas to lose some color.
It can cause them to become sick if the water doesn’t warm up.
Bettas should have a heater in their tank, and the water temperature should be 75-81°F (23.9-27.2°C).
Unfit Tank Mates
Bettas may lose some of their colors if they are being bullied.
Bettas are “Siamese fighting fish” famous for their aggressive nature.
They are not as aggressive as many beginners believe. Bettas can live happily with many community fish.
Bettas are mostly aggressive with other bettas and fish that look like them.
Due to their large fins, bettas are slow, weak swimmers. They can’t handle attacks by larger, more aggressive fish.
Don’t keep bettas in tanks with fish like fin-nipping barbs and tetras, cichlids, or goldfish.
Poor Diet
Bettas that don’t receive the proper nutrition will likely lose some color.
Betta fish are obligate carnivores that need a meaty, high-protein diet.
Stick with pellets and flakes made explicitly for bettas, as they are high in protein.
Avoid tropical fish food — it doesn’t contain enough protein.
Switch up the fish’s diet and give them a variety of live, frozen (thawed), or freeze-dried foods. Brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, and bloodworms are all good options.
Illness
Various infections can cause white growths to appear on the body. They can cause overall color loss of the fish’s body.
Color loss is one of the first signs that a fish is becoming sick.
Sleeping
Bettas lose color while they’re asleep.
The color loss may help them to better blend in with their environment. They are most vulnerable when they are asleep — being able to blend in keeps them safe.
It could also occur because part of the fish’s brain turns off. The fish isn’t as worried about maintaining its coloration.
No one knows for sure.
Old Age
Bettas naturally lose some of their colorations as they age.
Color loss is one of the first signs that a betta is getting old. Other symptoms, like lethargy and appetite loss, are soon to follow.
Bettas usually live between two to five years in captivity.
Hobbyists that aren’t sure how old their betta is should not assume that a betta is pale because of old age. Check the water parameters and look for signs of illness and stress first.
Death
Bettas become pale when they die.
It’s easy to tell a dead betta from a sleeping one by checking their gills. A sleeping betta’s gills will continue to flutter — a dead betta’s will not.
Why Marble Bettas Lose Their Color
Some bettas have the “marble” gene. They can change color many times throughout their lifetimes.
They have a marble patterning — usually darker splotches against a pale background.
Some marble bettas may change their spots’ size, shape, and location. Others become nearly solid in color.
It’s hard to tell what a juvenile will look like once it matures.
Can Fish Get Their Color Back?
Sick fish or those experiencing stress can regain their color once they feel well.
How Long Will It Take?
How quickly a betta fish regains color depends on how ill or stressed the fish is. A severely ill fish may take weeks to months to regain their color fully. Fish with a mild illness may get their color back more quickly.
How To Make Bettas More Colorful
There are a few ways that caretakers can help their betta look more colorful. Giving them a healthy home and nutritious foods helps bring out their natural color. Hobbyists can also set up the aquarium to highlight their fish’s colors.
Maintain A Healthy Tank
A fish living in a good environment will be happy and display its beautiful, bright colors.
House the betta in a tank no smaller than five gallons to give it room to explore. Larger tanks are more stable and easier to keep clean.
Provide them with lots of decorations and plants to explore and hide in. Avoid decorations with sharp edges that can injure their bodies and fins.
Perform regular water changes to keep the tank clean. Remove 15-30% of the water about once a week. Use a gravel vacuum to get the old fish food and poop between the substrate.
Use a low-flow filter, like a sponge filter, to keep the aquarium clean and produce oxygen. Change out the filter media and clean the filter about once a month.
Test the water regularly — at least once a week — to ensure the parameters stay within a healthy range.
Nutritionally-Rich Foods
Bettas are carnivores that need meaty, protein-rich foods. Providing a healthy diet helps bring out a betta’s natural colors.
Aquarists can feed their bettas foods high in carotenoids.
Carotenoids are pigments that help bring out the color in fish. Brine shrimp and daphnia are both high in carotenoids and make a great snack.
Some fish foods claim to draw out a betta’s color as well. They usually come in pellet or flake form.
Choosing Substrate, Backgrounds, & Decorations
One of the best ways to make a betta’s colors stand out is to design the aquarium around its colors.
Choose substrates, backgrounds, and decorations contrasting with the betta’s colors.
With their bright colors, bettas often look good with darker colors.
For instance, dark and pale bettas both look great in a tank with a black or dark blue substrate. Pale bettas also look good against bright substrates like hot pink, orange, or light green.
Picking The Right Lights
Lights make a big difference in the color of a betta’s scales.
Brighter lights bring out the most color, though they aren’t a good option for bettas. Betta fish come from murky waters where floating plants filter the sunlight. Intense lighting will cause the fish stress.
Instead, choose soft white LED lights. LED lights bring out the brilliance of fish’s colors without blinding them. They are also more energy efficient and won’t raise the temperature of the water.
FAQs
Why Does A Betta Fish Have Red Spots?
A betta that has red spots likely has an infection or injury.
Here are some common causes:
- Columnaris — causes scale loss and ulcers
- Fin Rot — red, fraying edges
- Anchor worms — inflamed skin at the site of infection
- Septicemia — red, bloody streaks or spots on the body
- Bacterial Infections — may appear as red spots
- Ammonia poisoning/burns — red spots or streaks on the body
Why Does A Betta Fish Have Brown Spots?
A betta with brown spots likely has a parasitic velvet infection.
As parasites burrow into the fish’s skin, they cause rusty-gold blotches to appear.
Treat velvet by raising the temperature and keeping the aquarium dark. We recommend using aquarium salt to help with healing.
Hobbyists may need to use medication for more severe infections.
