How Often Should You Feed Your Betta Fish?

Feeding nutritious foods in the right amounts is a key aspect of owning a betta fish.

Betta owners are prone to overfeeding. Unfortunately, it often leads to constipation and other digestive issues.

Knowing how often to feed a betta fish can prevent these problems. If you’re a new betta owner, you’re probably wondering how often to feed your betta fish.

Betta fish should eat one to two small meals every day. They must eat six days a week, with one fast day every week to clear their digestive system.

It’s also important to know what to feed a betta fish. There are many types of foods: pellets, flakes, freeze-dried, frozen, and live foods. Some are better than others, though it’s best to give bettas a variety.

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What Do Betta Fish Eat?

In the wild, bettas eat small insects, larvae, and crustaceans. Food sold in stores mimics their natural diet.

There are a variety of foods available for betta fish on the market. Bettas are obligate carnivores that cannot digest plant matter.

Some foods are healthier than others; be cautious about food selection.

Using high-quality, protein-rich foods is necessary for the long-term health of the betta. Good foods increase the fish’s natural color, prevent illness, and extend its life.

Pellets

Betta pellets are one of the most popular options for betta fish. Pellets are easy to feed, cost-effective, and last longer than live foods.

High-quality brands have great ingredients and offer plenty of nutrition.

Long-Lasting

One of the most popular features of pellets is that they last a long time. Aquarists can store pellets on their shelf in a dark, dry area.

New, unopened food will usually last for years before going bad. Use opened containers within six months.

Wide Variety

Pellets offer variety by coming in different flavors, preventing fish from getting bored. They come in many sizes, perfect for bettas big and small.

Floating Food

Betta pellets float, allowing easy access for the fish.

Bettas are surface feeders with upturned mouths. In the wild, they ambush prey floating on the surface by attacking from below.

The food also won’t get lost in the substrate, where it can dirty the tank.

The downside to floating pellets is that bettas may inhale air while gulping them. Bettas that take in too much air can develop swim bladder problems.

Flakes

Flake foods are another popular option, especially among newer owners.

Flakes often contain the same ingredients as pellets. They generally contain fewer nutrients and aren’t as healthy.

Flakes are okay as an occasional treat. Hobbyists shouldn’t use them as a staple diet like they would pellets.

Like pellets, flakes are widely available at any pet store that sells fish products.

Inhaling Air

Since flakes are light, it’s easy for betta fish to inhale air while eating. Inhaling too much air can cause swim bladder issues.

To prevent bettas from inhaling air, hobbyists can soak the flakes before feeding. Soaking the flakes allows the food to sink. Bettas eat the flakes from the water column rather than the surface.

The downside is that bettas are surface feeders. Eating food from the water column is more difficult for them.

Leftover flakes often get lost in the substrate, where it decomposes and makes the tank dirty.

Frozen Food

Frozen foods are one of the best options for betta fish; they are full of nutrients.

Frozen foods usually come in the same varieties as live foods. Hobbyists can buy mosquito larvae, brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, tubifex worms, bloodworms, etc.

Unlike live foods, there is no risk of parasites or bacteria in frozen foods.

Owners can buy frozen foods in small, pre-packed cubes or large blocks.

Large blocks are generally cheaper, though harder to use. Use a knife to cut off small chunks of food from the block before feeding.

Hobbyists sometimes need to break pre-portioned blocks. A single block is usually a good size for a whole tank but is too much for a single betta.

Live Food

Some hobbyists love live food, while others would never feed it to their fish.

Live food is excellent because it triggers a betta’s hunting instinct. It encourages them to flare, which is good for their health as long as they only do it occasionally.

It also encourages them to swim and explore, giving them more exercise.

Ideal Live Foods

Here are some of bettas’ favorite live foods:

• Mosquito larvae
• Bloodworms
• Tubifex worms
• Daphnia
• Baby brine shrimp
• Mysis shrimp

Mosquito larvae are a good staple meal because it contains many nutrients.

Mysis and baby brine shrimp are excellent foods for bettas. They are rich in fiber, protein, amino acids, and vitamins.

Brine shrimp, in particular, contains a lot of fiber. It is great for preventing and treating constipation.

Only give bloodworms as occasional treats. They contain some beneficial nutrients, like iron. They don’t contain enough amino acids.

Easy Feeding

Live food is easy to feed, as hobbyists can usually drop the food in the tank and let it go. The food item, whether insect or crustacean, will start wiggling about. Their movements catch the interest of the betta who will begin their hunt.

Live Food Is Easy To Raise

Some aquarists raise live food themselves in a separate tank.

Raising live food is cost-effective and saves hobbyists repeat trips to the pet store. Some live foods are easy to raise, while others can be more challenging.

Many people that raise food for bettas choose baby brine shrimp or daphnia. Pet stores often sell starter kits that make raising these critters easy.

Buy Live Foods At The Store

Owners can buy live foods from the pet store. Most can live inside a container in the fridge for several days and stay fresh.

Avoid buying in bulk. Some of the critters will start dying, compromising the quality of the still-live food.

Live Food May Contain Parasites

The downside to live food is that it may contain parasites. Fish that contract parasites often get them from live food.

Take care to buy live food from reputable sources.

Freeze-Dried Food

Freeze-dried foods contain more nutrients and minerals than pellets or flakes. They don’t contain as many nutrients as frozen or live food.

There is no risk of parasites with freeze-dried foods like there is with live foods.

Freeze-dried food was once a type of live food that has had all its moisture taken from it. Pieces of freeze-dried food look the same as when the creatures were alive.

Floating VS Sinking Food

Floating food is easier for bettas to eat because they are surface feeders.

There is always the risk that bettas will gulp too much air while eating food at the water’s surface. Ingesting too much air can lead to bloat or swim bladder disorder.

Sinking pellets reduce the risk of air inhalation. As surface feeders, they are more difficult for bettas to eat. Food may sink to the substrate if the betta isn’t fast enough. The food will decompose and dirty the tank if the betta doesn’t find and eat it.

Both sinking and floating foods have their advantages and disadvantages. Hobbyists should choose whichever kind works best for them and their betta.

We recommend sticking with floating foods. A betta’s body is designed for surface feeding.

Which Food Is Best?

We recommend alternating between frozen foods and pellets for bettas’ staple foods.

Frozen foods are almost as nutritious as live ones and easy to keep fresh. There is also no risk of parasites or bacteria with frozen foods.

Pellets are less nutritious than freeze-dried foods.

Pellets are less likely to cause constipation than freeze-dried options. They are easier and cheaper to find in stores as well.

Ultimately, the most important thing is to provide a variety of nutritionally-rich foods. Don’t feed bettas the same kinds of foods every day.

Hobbyists should choose whatever works best for their lifestyle that their betta enjoys. The fish should remain happy and healthy as long as the food is high-quality and has lots of nutrients.

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How Often Should Betta Fish Eat?

Bettas only need to eat once or twice daily — twice is best. Some owners feed their bettas smaller meals three times daily. Doing so keeps their fish’s energy consistent throughout the day.

Try to split their meals evenly for the best health and energy. For instance, a betta could receive their first meal at 7 am and their second at 7 pm.

Bettas have small stomachs and digestive tracts. Their stomachs can’t hold much, despite their ferocious appetites.

For some perspective, a betta’s stomach is only about the size of one of its eyeballs.

In the wild, bettas constantly forage for food. They never know when their next meal might come along.

They aren’t constantly eating, though, as they can’t always find food.

Wild bettas also travel more than captive ones. The extra exercise helps their metabolisms.

How Often To Feed A Baby Betta Fish

Baby bettas need much more food than adults because they are constantly growing. Babies should eat two to four times a day.

How Much To Feed A Betta Fish

Remember that a betta’s stomach is only about the size of its eyeball. Only give it a pinch of food that seems like it could fit within the eyeball.

They shouldn’t have more food than they can eat within two to three minutes.

Generally, bettas should receive two to three pellets per meal or an equal amount of other foods.

Exactly how much an owner feeds their betta depends on the fish. Some bettas are bigger than others and need more food, and vice versa.

Remove any food the betta hasn’t eaten after two to three minutes. Removing food prevents overfeeding or dirtying up the tank. Leftover food is a major culprit of high ammonia in a tank.

Don’t Overfeed Your Betta

It’s necessary to avoid overfeeding a betta because it can cause constipation. Constipation leads to swim bladder disorder and bloat.

Though fairly easy to treat, constipation is uncomfortable. It can lead to more serious problems without treatment.

Death is rare, though it can happen if bettas never receive treatment.

Should You Fast A Betta?

Fasting is great for constipated bettas.

Some owners also fast their healthy bettas once a week. Fasting once a week prevents constipation and other digestive issues.

Fasting healthy bettas is somewhat controversial. Some caretakers swear by it, while others say it’s unnecessary.

A day of fasting allows the betta’s digestive system to clear itself out. Fasting prevents constipation, obesity, and other digestive problems.

Bettas who have a day of fasting each week seem to have better overall health and energy.

Don’t fast a betta for more than one day unless they are actively suffering from constipation.

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Use A Feeding Schedule

Keeping a feeding schedule helps hobbyists track what they’re feeding and how often.

It’s best to provide bettas with a variety of foods to keep their digestive systems running smoothly. A varied diet also helps prevent them from getting bored.

Pellets, flakes, and freeze-dried foods tend to pass through the system more slowly. They are more likely to cause blockages when fed too much or too often.

Live and frozen food passes through their system more quickly.

A good feeding schedule includes a variety of dry, live, and frozen foods.

Below is an example of a good feeding schedule for betta fish. It is only a recommendation, and hobbyists can change it as they see fit. Some bettas prefer certain foods over others or have specific health requirements.

Day Of The Week	Type Of Food (2-3 Pieces Twice/Day)
Sunday	N/A — Fast
Monday	Pellets
Tuesday	Live or frozen
Wednesday	Pellets
Thursday	Freeze-Dried
Friday	Live or Frozen
Saturday	Pellets

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How To Feed Your Betta While On Vacation

Try to have someone stop by to feed the betta if vacation is more than two or three days long.

Technically, bettas can survive for a week or two without food, though it’s unhealthy for them to do so.

Having a person feed the betta is better than using a vacation feeder. The pet sitter can see the fish and ensure they’re doing well. They can ensure that the fish receive the correct amount of food at every meal.

Hobbyists worried about overfeeding can pre-portion their fish’s meals.

A travel pill container is great for holding a fish’s meal. The pet sitter simply chooses the right day on the container, removes the food, and gives it to the fish.

Automatic Feeders

The next best option is a mechanical fish feeder. Get an adjustable one to prevent overfeeding.

The bad thing about automatic feeders is that they can malfunction. Fish may end up starving or receiving too much food.

Battery-operated vacation feeders exist and are good in case of power outages. The disadvantage is that they need regular charging, or they die.

There are even some feeders that contain multiple chambers for food. The device rotates to dispense the right food on the right day.

Place a different food in each chamber to keep bettas on their regular feeding schedule.

Dissolvable Vacation Foods

Avoid the chalk-like, dissolvable vacation feeders that hold a week’s worth of food.

These feeders are meant to dissolve slowly, offering the fish the right amount of food each day.

They often dissolve incorrectly. Fish get too much at once, leaving them without food for the rest of the week. They also tend to make tanks dirty and can cause health issues for fish.

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Precautions

There is always something to be cautious of when feeding a betta. Something can go wrong even if the hobbyist seems to be doing everything right.

Food nutrition labels aren’t always trustworthy; tank mates might steal their food. Too many treats can make a betta fat, and refreezing thawed food can make a betta sick.

Owners should keep these things in mind when feeding their bettas.

Don’t Give Too Many Treats

Too many treats can quickly lead to constipation and obesity.

Remember that bettas have small stomachs. They’ll eat anything their caretaker gives them, regardless.

Don’t let a betta’s cute face or amusing antics get it more treats than it needs.

Be Wary Of Labels On Food Containers

The nutrition and ingredient labels on low-quality fish food containers may be deceptive. Companies want hobbyists to believe their food is healthy to sell more of it.

Always look at the first ingredient listed on the label. It should be some kind of meat, like salmon, herring, or krill.

Avoid foods whose first ingredient is ‘fish meal’ as they aren’t very nutritious.

Fish meal comprises fish by-products, bycatch, and whole wild fish. Hobbyists never know precisely what they’re getting with fish meal.

Fish foods should contain at least 40% total protein to be nutritious enough for bettas.

Don’t Re-Freeze Frozen Foods

The longer thawed food sits out at room temperature, the more time bacteria have to infect the food. Re-frozen thawed food is not safe for fish to eat.

Bettas should consume frozen food immediately after thawing. Dispose of any food the betta doesn’t eat after a few minutes.

Take care to only thaw as much food as the betta can eat in one meal. Never thaw more than they can eat or try to refreeze the food.

Avoid Competitive Tank Mates

Avoid speedy tank mates that will outcompete the betta for food. Observe the betta while eating to ensure they’re getting enough.

Selective breeding has left bettas with large, awkward fins that make swimming difficult. They can’t eat as quickly as other streamlined fish.

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What If A Betta Fish Doesn’t Eat?

There are many reasons a betta may not eat. They could be experiencing stress, illness, or constipation.

It’s common for sick and stressed fish to lose their appetite. Hobbyists must watch their fish’s other symptoms to figure out the cause.

A New Home

Bettas may not eat in a new tank for the first few days. The new environment is stressful, and they lose their appetite.

It is nothing to worry about as long as the betta begins eating after a few days. A betta that doesn’t eat for more than three days may be sick or experiencing stress from another source.

Poor Water Quality

Poor water conditions or shock can cause a betta to lose its appetite.

Poor water conditions cause stress and illness, and many bettas refuse to eat.

Likewise, quick changes in pH or temperature can shock fish, leading to loss of appetite.

Infection

Bacterial, fungal, and parasitic infections are uncomfortable and often painful for fish. Their behavior shifts; they become lethargic and lose interest in food.

Constipation

A fish experiencing constipation may be physically unable to eat more food.

Bettas often continue eating during mild constipation. Doing so makes their condition worse.

Severe constipation makes it difficult to impossible to eat. A betta cannot defecate any longer, preventing them from taking in more food. Owners often observe their bettas trying to eat before spitting their food back out.

Old Age

It’s possible that the betta is simply getting old and reaching the end of its life.

As bettas age, their appetite decreases, and they don’t eat as much as they did when they were younger.

An old betta that stops eating altogether is likely about to die.